The Bistro Truck

Food trucks around New York City are giving an entirely new meaning to “meals on wheels”. Sure, street cart vendors have always been a part of the city’s charm, but the invasion of high quality food trucks transcends the traditional dirty water dogs and street meat so tied to this city’s food culture. This influx of everything from barbeque to waffles and dinges in mobile form seems obvious for a city constantly on the go. Still, it’s not until you buy chocolate molten cake out of the back of a truck that you think, “Damn, I wish I thought of this”.

What I find particularly interesting is the emergence of the expanding range of food available on the street. Middle eastern food carts have been staples of New York’s sidewalks for ages. Latin American food is certainly the runner up, but they seem no less prevalent. So, when I passed The Bistro Truck I was intrigued by the idea. It’s so fitting. In Paris, bistros are the alternative to haute cuisine. They exist so you can get a moderately priced, moderately sized, home-style meal, while you smoke your cigarettes, wearing a beret, reading Camus, and trash talking Americans. In New York, bistros have taken on a different role, often charging exorbitant prices while maintaining a certain degree of culinary snootiness. To see the bistro in the most pedestrian of settings was a welcome sight.

Lets talk food. I ordered the Marrakech lamb, which came with cous cous and a small salad. For 7 dollars, I was very happy. The lamb was likely braised for hours, and then pulled. I really didn’t detect many North African flavors though, so I was a bit confused as what made this Marrakech lamb. Instead, the lamb reminded me of a Jewish style brisket (that is opposed to Texas BBQ brisket). It was rich, flavorful, and tender, with just enough juice or gravy to soak up the cous cous. The cous cous itself wasn’t anything special, but once it got together with that brisket, it excelled. Other items on the menu include a “bistro burger”, which I saw being served, and it looked pretty damn good. My friend ordered the Dijon chicken, which I tasted, and liked.

Look, this isn’t a foodgasm in the slightest. It’s lunch on the street, for seven dollars. That being said, the service was a little slow. I chalk that up to a pretty long line, and its prime location on Fifth Avenue near 14^th Street. Still, the woman who seems to play owner, chef, waitress, and cashier at the same time appeared to be working her ass off, so I chose to be forgiving. Yet, some nasty old hag just had to bitch at this poor woman. She remarked snidely about the wait, which was no more than ten minutes, to which the owner apologized emphatically. To be fair, this is street food, and it should be rapid, but I empathize with the Bistro Truck. Mainly, that is, is because I wish for nothing more than to untie my tie, wrap it around my head, and cook hot dogs out of the back of a truck. Until next time, stay hungry out there folks.

Report Card

Food: B

Service – B+

Atmosphere – A

Price - $

Overall – B+

(Note – I am changing the Price grading system in the Report Card to dollar signs, instead of a letter. An “A” for price could mean a 5 dollar sandwich, or a 25 dollar entrée, depending on where you go, so this is far more telling. Grades will range from $ to $$$$$)

"You Say Tomato, I Say Agricultural Disaster"

Chef Dan Barber, of Blue Hill, has written a very interesting op-ed for the New York Times about the late blight that has destroyed much of the tomato crop in the northeast this year. It's a very good read, especially for those who plant their own fruits or vegetables.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/09/opinion/09barber.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1

wd-50

Hey folks, Jon here. I'm not one for genres. Be it music or food, our ever-changing and rapidly globalizing world is shattering the walls that used to help us comprehend what something "is". When someone tells me a band is Electronic Afro Funk, or a certain restaurant is Post Asian Fusion, I begin to wonder if these labels have any use. At the same time, saying something is Japanese food, or rock music, doesn't really help either. For all their trouble, genres allow us to experience something within certain bounds. They provide a certain set of expectations for our sensory perception. Yet, one particular genre sets out to destroy these expectations by playing off of them, and ultimately shattering them. I'm talking about what has come to be known as "molecular gastronomy". Its a mouth full. Molecular gastronomy incorporates scientific techniques into the culinary arena, and by doing so it reveals some of the mystery behind the process of cooking food. This opens a door where a chef can obliterate traditional culinary norms, while allowing for far more artistic expression. In New York, Wyle DuFresne is the mad-scientist in chief in the world of molecular gastronomy, and his Lower East Side resturaunt, wd-50, is his delicious laboratory.

In a way, wd-50 is much like Willy Wonka's factory, except your golden ticket better be your AMEX, because its not cheap. Like everyone's favorite reclusive candy mogul, DuFresne takes typical fare, like eggs benedict or pastrami on rye, and transforms it into something completely different, yet at the same time totally familiar. While this is all good fun, and really interesting, it was just a little too cheeky for me at times. When you spend the kind of money that wd-50 will cost you, you want something that, in the end, tastes great, rather than makes you chuckle at how ironic it is.

To start we ordered his famous eggs benedict. Eggs benedict is perhaps one of the most universally available dishes. It can be found at nearly every brunch spot in America, and every chef who has a right to that title knows how to make it. This sort of fodder is prime for Dufresne - stuff we know, stuff we have a certain set of expectations for. This dish was definitely a great example of where molecular gastronomy works. Dufresne takes the hollandaise sauce and deep fries it, so that you have a crispy square, that once bitten into explodes in your mouth. It's almost like a gourmet "gusher", those irresistible gummies from my youth. The dish is also deconstructed, a theme that runs throughout the entire genre. Egg here, bacon there, sauce over there. Sometimes, like here for example, this works well, because it allows for the diner to appreciate individual tastes in what is generally a grouped item. Other times it's just cheesy. There's no reason to have a piece of ground beef on one side of the plate, a piece of cheese on the other, and a crouton artistically laid in the middle. Just give me a fucking cheeseburger, and cut the shit.

The other appetizer was also great. In the spirit of its Lower East Side location, Dufresne plays off of one of my personal faves, the power and the glory that is the Katz's Deli corned beef on rye. (See Below for an unapologetically raving review) Instead of corned beef, DuFresne offers up Corned Duck on a Rye Crisp with Horseradish Cream and Purple Mustard. You can't lose with cured meat folks, it's really that simple. The duck adds a certain depth of flavor that you don't get with standard corned beef. You can't invoke the spirit of the sandwich without mustard, and the purple mustard and horseradish give it a real nice kick. Still, I'm going with Katz's any day.

Unfortunately, I think at that point my meal hit a peak. The entrees were certainly good, they just seemed to fall a little short of my expectations, which were ironically to shatter my expectations. I ordered Wagyu skirt steak with long bean, tamarind, and peanut butter pasta. Sure, the steak was perfectly cooked and was a fabulous cut. I understand that peanut butter and steak are an established flavor combination that works (satay). But at this point, I began to ask myself, do I really want to be eating peanut butter noodles? At a certain point, a line is crossed between a dish that is whimsical and a dish that is unnecessary and a forced transformation into something it is not. My dinner guest ordered the scallops with pine noodle udon and chinese broccoli. What I enjoyed about this dish was that it wasn't too complex, or overly cerebral. Just perfectly seared scallops in a unique and refreshing broth. Enjoyable, but not outstanding.

For dessert, I indulged in the hazelnut tart with coconut chocolate and chicory. This is one of those dishes with Dufresne's trademark foams. While the tart was certainly decadent and delicious, the foam really didn't do it for me. Foam is just a peculiar texture, and not one I'm super enthusiastic about eating, regardless of the flavor.

All in all, wd-50, Dufresne, molecular gastronomy, the whole deal just was a little too tongue in cheek for me. I think this restaurant is best suited for his six million course tasting menu, only it'll cost you your first born. Largely, that's because this fare is perhaps best suited to small plates, which is why I was more thrilled with the appetizers. It's almost like, "Oh, wow, look at that" or "Geez, how did he do that!", but not necessarily something you want a whole meal of. Still, if your feeling adventurous and are tired of food being just something to eat, wd-50 brings a spectacle to dining that everyone should witness at least once. Until next time, stay hungry out there folks.

Report Card:

Food: A-

Service: A-

Atmosphere: B

Price: C

Overall: B

Raj Mahal

Hey folks, Jon here. I had no intention on writing this blog post. You see, its not every meal that makes its way to this site. I have neither the time, money, or culinary prowess for such an undertaking. Tonight, I ate at Raj Mahal, with no intention of blogging the details afterwards. However, I feel obliged to you, my good readers, to tell you a little about my dinner. No restaurant has ever given me such mixed signals, so intensely liking and disliking a place at the same time. 

We arrive at Raj Mahal, located on East 6th Street in the heart of what is affectionately known as "Curry Row". Since I moved to the East Village, I have been itching to try one of these places, and so I did. Through a cursory glance at various internet publications ("menupages.com", "yelp.com", and the like) I decided upon Raj Mahal. Unfortunately, I don't have photos for you. Sorry, I'll try and be as descriptive as I can. Really, it wasn't the food that was so remarkable about this place, it was everything else. 

Okay lets start with the positives. If you've ever walked through this part of the East Village, you know the scene. Over-anxious Indian men crowd the sidewalks, yelling and grabbing at anyone that crosses their path. I've even seen some of them get into fights, out do-ing each other by offering prices, specials, sexual favors... they really want your business. While its certainly true there is something charming about that experience, it often falls upon deaf ears and cold stares. This is New York City after all. So, to approach with the intent to enter, made me feel like I was doing something good. They were the Babu Bhatt to my Jerry Seinfeld. 

Inside I was immediately overjoyed at the sight of two Indian men playing a sitar and a drum. Personally, I love this sort of thing. It could be my love for all things George Harrison, my fascination with Eastern philosophy,  or both. I often tune into the classical Indian or Iranian stations on Itunes and tune out. Suffice to say, that was awesome, and I may go back, just to ask if I can jam out with those dudes. 

But perhaps the thing that I loved and hated the most was that it was truly a wormhole into Mumbai. Everything about this place was 100% authentically Indian. On one hand, thats great. I often remark that I love New York City because of this very phenomenon. Nowhere else in the world shares that ability to instantly produce such a multitude of authentic global cuisines. Most of the food we ordered had a very homemade feel to it. It was almost like eating in somebody's kitchen on any weekday night in India. The Chicken Sobzi was a well flavored stew, which was perfect over the buttery rice and some fresh nan. The Chicken Tandoori was good, nothing out of this world, but not terrible. Its burnt orange hue and unique spiciness really demonstrate the classic technique of its traditional clay pot namesake. Most of all, the place wasn't every other post-modern, neo-architectural trendy spot. New York is littered with far too many of those places, replacing quaintness with pseudo style. On the other hand....

I knew something was wrong about three minutes into my meal. My friend alerted me to a sight I wish I hadn't seen. Scurrying its way across the wall behind us was a rather large cockroach. Thats just not something you wanna see while your eating. Suddenly all the charm of this place turned into trepidation. Was I eating something I shouldn't be? Were there more behind me? I was uneasy to say the least. For my friend it was simply too much. He never regained his appetite, and I'm pretty sure he'll never eat at Raj Mahal again. The only thing that comforted me was to pretend like I was in Mumbai, and realizing that far worse natural unpleasantries could be between me and my chicken than one small bug. My only option was to put it out of my mind, and stop being a whiny Manhattanite. But come on, cockroaches? Really? Clean your shit up Raj Mahal, no excuses for that sort of thing in the NYC restaurant biz. The place is rather dingy too, and dimly lit to boot. That's not always a bad thing. It is when there's insects about. Further, the table settings look as if they hadn't been changed since 1975, with glasses and plates that went out of fashion long ago. I can't decide if I like that, or if it goes to its general skeeviness. 

Another thing that was a little unsettling was my stomach. Minutes after leaving I began to feel a little queasy, which was only exacerbated by the realization that my illness could have been directly related to Raj Mahal. On reflection, there was something a little odd about the bone structure of my chicken. I've eaten my fair share of chickens in my day, but I'd never seen one that looked quite like this. It was almost like a squab, or a NYC squab, A.K.A. pigeon. Whatever it was it tasted good, but I'm definitely suspicious as to its origins. 

The bottom line is this; if you are the sort of person that would be bothered by questionable food, less than stellar cleanliness, and general disconcert for modern culinary conventions, this place isn't for you. But if you eat street food all the time, know and employ the "five second rule," and enjoy ethnic cuisine you should check it out. Still, I'm torn on this one. On return to those very internet sites that referred me to Raj Mahal, I noticed something I missed before. All of them read, "great takeout". Until next time, stay hungry. 

Food: B

Atmosphere: Either an A or a C, I really can't say. 

Service: A-

Price: A- 

 

Overall: You be the judge, I'm sitting this one out. 

Nobu

As a huge fan of Japanese food, one restaurant has always been on my short list of places I must eat at; Nobu. Recently, I finally had the opportunity to get a taste of what I had been missing.

Upon arriving at the Tribeca restaurant, we were sitting at our table within minutes (with a reservation). After placing our order, our first course arrived between 5 and 10 minutes later. From there, it seemed like the following courses arrived just as we were cleaning the plate on our table. Our 8 course meal was completed in just over an hour and a half!

The menu is a little intimidating. I can hold my own when it comes to ordering sushi, but Nobu is known for their hot and cold dishes. We relied on suggestions from our waiter for most of the selections we made.

Fresh Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno

Great way to start the meal. The fish was incredibly fresh and the jalapeno complemented it very nicely.

Salmon Tartar

This really impressed me. The fish was mounted in the center of a bowl and was surrounded by some sort of wasabi and soy-based sauce. Truly outrageous flavor combination.

Sashimi Salad with Matsuhisa Dressing

If you had asked me last week what I might expect to order while at Nobu, the last thing I would have told you was a salad. However, I am extremely glad that I did. The dressing was amazing and perfectly complimented the seared tuna and fresh greens. Wow.

Rock Shrimp Tempura with Creamy Spicy Sauce

This dish wasn't bad in the slightest. I enjoyed it very much. However, it wasn't anything I couldn't get at any other Japanese restaurant. I was hoping for more.

Squid "Pasta" with Garlic Sauce

Intriguing. It's been almost a week since I had this meal and I still can't decide how I feel about this dish. It was good, but it was the first dish of the night I wasn't racing to finish. I think I enjoyed the mushrooms more than the squid. If anyone else has had this, please comment and let me know what you thought of it.

Broiled Black Cod with Miso

Unreal! This was easily the best dish of the night. The fish was tender, flaky, and incredibly flavorful. I could eat this dish everyday. It was that good. Does anyone know a fish monger in the city that carries black cod?

Sushi - Red Snapper, House Special Roll

It would have been very weird to have a Japanese meal and not have at least a little sushi. So we had to indulge a little bit. We got the house "special" roll. The waiter said it included 5 different fishes. I would guess this includes salmon, tuna, yellowtail, and a few others. It was good. Not the best roll I've ever had, but the quality of fish definitely lived up to my expectations. In addition to the roll, I also ordered a piece of Japanese Red Snapper sushi. The waiter said it was only available for a few months during the spring. This I really enjoyed.

Warm Bittersweet Chocolate Soup

The bowl arrived with a mound of peanut butter crunch, ice cream, and chocolate mochi. The waiter poured the warm chocolate over it at our table to fill the bowl. This was the perfect way to cleanse our palettes and finish the meal. The mochi was a little strange. It has the consistency of jello, yet tastes like chocolate. Overall, I loved it. Maybe I'm just a sucker for chocolate. But who isn't? This dish was gone before I could get my camera out to snap a picture.

Report Card

Food: A-

Atmosphere: A (beautiful restaurant and great ambience)

Price: C (overpriced)

Overall: B+

Nobu

105 Hudson Street

New York, NY

212-219-0500

Momofuku Noodle Bar

Momofuku Noodle Bar is officially my new obsession. I was already on the David Chang bandwagon after having tasted his asian fusion cuisine at the NYC Locals Only event on the corner of Houston and Broadway. Now, having been to two out of four of Chang's East Village hotspots, I am a believer. Perhaps, what I love most about the Noodle Bar is that the menu changes daily. The prix fixe meal that I indulged in tonight will never return, but will instead be supplanted with something equally, if not more delicious. 

During our recent visit to the Noodle Bar, I was lucky enough to sit at a bar in front of the open view kitchen, spending the meal schmoozing with the chefs about all things Momofuku. But most importantly, no question went unanswered. Anything I wanted to know about what I was eating was met with a quick and informative response. It was a great insight into the workings of a busy kitchen and its staff.

Okay, lets get to the good stuff. The prix fixe option consisted of a four course, one night only, orgy of super delicious and interesting dishes. We also ordered a couple things off of the permanent menu. Lets start with the June 22, 2009 specials. Before any of the menu items arrived, we were treated to a complimentary amuse boushe. The moment I put it in my mouth  I knew I was about to embark on a wild culinary adventure. Atop a japanese soup spoon was a fresh strawberry with a reduced greek yogurt, cilantro, and some sort of spicy honey. (Sorry, I was too excited to snap a photo) It was the perfect combination of sweet, spicy, and savory. Let's just say I was very ready for the next dish.  The appetizer was an Octopus Torchon with sorrel, mustard greens, and furikake. I can't be certain, but I believe that Torchon is a play on words, being that it is a style of lace, and a method of cooking fois gras, by poaching it in a towel. I say that because the octopus was cut razor thin and beautifully plated, and certainly delicately cooked. It was accompanied with some really fresh micro-mustard greens. It was terrific, really light and fresh. It fully awakened for my pallatte for the next dish, which fucking blew my mind. 

About ten minutes later the waitress brought out my favorite dish of 2009. It was a Duck Tsukemen, with a chilled dipping broth, pickle salad, and sesame. Tsukemen noodles are similar to Ramen noodles, but are a bit thinner and are meant to be dipped into a broth. The duck was outrageous. It was smoked with several different kinds of wood, and conveyed a powerful campfire flavor along with its super crispy skin. Dipped in the broth with the noodles, it was a five alarm foodgasm. I know I throw that term around a lot, and it is the name of this blog, but this wasn't just any foodgasm. It was a sophisticated explosion of complex flavor and texture. This wasn't Megan Fox or Kim Kardashian, it was like fucking Natalie Portman. Oh, the pickle salad rocked, and you know me, I love me my pickles. 

The last savory dish of the prix fix was Roasted Diver Scallops with fennel puree, baby rainbow Swiss chard, and lemon. What can I say, this was great. The scallops were flavorful, with a perfect crust on the top and bottom. The fennel puree was also outstanding, providing a nice bed for the scallops. My only problem with the scallop dish was that it came out when I was face first in a bowl of ramen. 

I have always loved ramen. In fact, Top Ramen, you know, the one that costs 25 cents in the grocery store, was the first thing I ever learned to cook on my own. In grade school, I think I had one a day, until I realized I was slowly poisoning myself with sodium. Thanks to David Chang, I don't think I'll ever be able eat store bought Ramen again. This blew my mind. Momofuku Ramen has a rich and hearty stock, which provides a great home for some perfectly cooked Ramen noodles, pork belly, pork shoulder, scallions, mushrooms, nori, and a poached egg. The chef disclosed that they use a super high tech steam oven to slow poach the eggs in the shells. Pretty nifty. I'm pretty sure at one point I had my entire head in the mega-sized bowl, only coming up for air when I reached the end of a very long noodle slurp. These asian fusion noodle joints are all the rage in New York's food scene, but it is safe to say Momofuku Noodle Bar is the kingpin.  

The prix fix also came with with Momufuku's famous ice cream flavors, but I think that's better left for the forthcoming Momofuku Milk Bar review. Stay hungry. 

Report Card:

Food: A+

Service: A

Atmosphere: A-

Price: A-

Overall: A

Wechsler's Currywurst and Bratwurst

It's two in the afternoon on a Saturday, and I just time traveled into my bed from Wechsler's Currywurst and Bratwurst, where I had been drinking last night. I was drinking beer, lots and lots of really great beer. I suppose I should take you back in time. You see, not so long ago, as I was walking down First Avenue, something caught my eye. It was a resturaunt that I had never seen before. One with a big open window that displayed a small but cozy bar, built around a piping hot grill, loaded up with sausages. I didn't even have to look at the menu to know that I'd be returning to here some time in the near future. 

Since that day, I've made two visits over to Wechsler's. The first was primarily an eating excursion, and the second, well, that was last night's beer tour of Germany. Before I divulge in the details of the food and drink, let me say something about the ambiance, if you will. Inside Wechsler's, you are immediately transported to a small bar somewhere in rural Germany. Wechlsler's family crest is adorned on the walls, along with portraits of various German's, likely to be Wechslers from the late 19th century. Its the kind of place you would expect men with leiderhosen to come and drink you under the table. Its the kind of place you find hidden somewhere in Bavaria, not in downtown Manhattan. At the same time, it's emblematic of modern Europe. Wechsler's is filled with Germans visiting New York, or those of have recently moved here. Why? Because of the currywurst.

In Germany, currywurst is king. I can't pretend to be an expert in the wonderful world of currywurst, but I can tell you why it rocks. Wechsler's currywurst is a pork and veal sausage, grilled till its hot and snappy, and then cut into bite size peices. Its then smothered with a tomato curry sauce, and sprinkled with some curry powder. Its tremendous. The curry sauce is such a great compliment to the sausage. For those who enjoy ketchup on your hotdog, but long for more complex and exciting flavors, this is for you. 

The bratwurst is equally terrific. Its served on a rectangular cardboard holder, meant to be eaten with your hands. It comes with a delicious roll, which I used to make little bratwusrt sandwiches. I'm all for authenticity, and eaten things with my hands, but that brat was smoking hot, and the American in me really wanted it nestled on some sort of bread holder. It comes with some spicy mustard, which is great, but once you have the hot mustard at McSoreley's Old Ale House everything seems to pale in comparison. We also ordered a wild boar sausage and a lamb sausage. I wasn't going to not try the wild boar, but in the end, it was mediocre at best. The lamb sausage was good, but very "lamby" if you will. If you love lamb, go for it, but if you generally aren't crazy about lamb, well, dont. 

The currywurst comes with pommes frites, and they are out of this world. I'm not quite sure why so many swoon after Pommes Frites on Second Avenue. They aren't even frites really, they are more like the chips you get in England. Sure, they have a plethora of fancy dipping sauces, but the frites should speak for themselves. These frites are no joke, and are by far some of the best I've ever had. Frites should be thin, like McDonald's fries, thinner actually, like matchsticks, but not so thin that they are tasteless crisps, like those god awful shoestring fries. They should be salty as hell, and fried until dark they are golden brown. They are of the sort you would expect from a top tier French restaurant with an order of Steak Frites. You can get an entire order for 2 dollars, so don't be shy. 

During my first visit, I ordered a beer to go along with all of that delicious food. I asked the bartender to help me with a selection. You see, this isnt the sort of place to get a Heineken, or a Stella Artois even. The entire beer list is in German, and are likely regional beers from Germany. What I was given was a monster sized beer-stein of Hofbrau, a delicious golden lager. I immediately thought of Broken Lizards's hilarious film, Beerfest. This was the secret recipe beer, the beer that I wanted to freeze and ice skate on it in the winter. It was a beergasm. It was so good, that I decided to go back to Wechsler's last night, and get bombed on it. 

This is the sort of place where each beer has its own glass, only to be used for that one particular beer. The bartender was kind enough to help us choose. After a few cold ones, mumbling "weissenbraukrackenfranzenhammer" didn't get us very far on our own. I must say, the "weisse" or wheat bears were great. The bartender, obviously a savvy businessman, kept recommending beer, and we kept knocking them back. I was glad to do it. We tried some of this, and some of that. I would tell you what they were called, if I could remember, let alone pronounce them. The next thing I remember was the bartender asking us if we wanted something a little special. With you good readers in mind, I gladly indulged. What he brought us was bacon smoked beer. I was happier than a little schoolgirl at the very thought. After one sip, I was in heaven. It's a dark and rich beer, that powerfully conveys the aroma of burning beachwood, and the unmistakable flavor of bacon. After a few more sips, I decided that I could never again drink that in my life. Its not that it wasn't outstanding, its just was too much and too rich. It didn't just "remind me" of bacon, I was drinking liquid smoked cured pork belly. 

At that moment, suddenly I awoke at my apartment. With the taste of bacon beer on my lips, I knew one thing. I had to pee, a lot.

Stay hungry folks, most posts are coming soon.  

Coming Soon

Hey folks. I must apologize for the long delay between posts. As I have mentioned before, unfortunately this is not my full time gig. However, I am ready to roll with a whole slew of new posts to make it up to you. In the coming days, Foodgasm NY is coming at you with everything from NYC fine dining meccas like Nobu and Balthazar, to German and Venezuelan delights in the East Village. Be excited. Stay posted. 

Coming Soon:

Nobu

Wechsler's Currywurst and Bratwurst

Balthazar

Momofuku Milk Bar

Caracas Arepas 

Defonte's Sandwich Shop

Ottomanelli and Sons Meat Market

Borgo Antico

Until next time... Stay Hungry. 

NBC Locals Lunch with David Chang (Momofuku)

The editors of FoodGasm recently had the privilege of attending a very special NBC Locals lunch event, catered by Momofuku's David Chang. The event, whose location was secret until the very last minute, took place in an empty lot on the corner of Lafayette and Houston, next to a restaurant supply store. It was a very cool scene; outdoor kitchen, picnic tables, and security guards keeping the gates on top watch. There were 4 menu choices: vegetarian, pork, chicken, or dealer's choice (chef makes whatever feels). Unfortunately, when we got there, they weren't doing the dealer's choice anymore (which sadly turned out to be lobster, and then shwarma), so I went with the pork.

My meal consisted of Rice Fries, a Pork Bun, Rice Cakes, and everyone got a Pepsi Natural (new drink not on the market yet) and ice cream, but more about that in a bit. The pork bun was fantastic! It was served open, like a pita. There was a very generous amount of the tender pork, which was covered in a hoisin-like sauce, and a few cucumbers, which added a very nice texture and spring flavor to the mix. The bun was incredibly fresh, too.

The Rice Cakes were very interesting. They had the texture of candy with the hotness of the red chili sauce they were covered in. I liked these a lot. The Rice Fries were a nice side to the meal. They were light, salty, and addictive. Also to note, Pepsi Natural is really good. It tastes more like Coke than Pepsi and is quite refreshing.

Jon went with the Vegetarian meal. Here is his opinion on the food he got...

Hey folks, Jon here. I know what you thinking... "but Jon you aren't vegetarian and have frequently voiced your love of meat on this very site!" Exhale readers, I have not switched over to the dark side. I chose the veggie option simply because it was the "noodle" option. When I knew I was going to have the privilege of eating David Chang's food, I immediately knew some delicious noodles were coming my way. And delicious they were indeed. They were particularly thin, much like a "mei fun", and had a light ginger taste. Served along with the noodles was pickled cucumber, tasting something like Korean kim chi. Something else sat on my plate, but I simply couldn't identify it. It was certainly some sort of "greens", either kale, or bok choy, etc. Either way, it was tasty.

My meal came with the rice fries as well. They were really great. They reminded me of the asian rice snacks you occasionally find sitting on a bar mixed with some wasabi peas. I love that stuff, and these were a great execution of those. The shitake bun was excellent, but not as great as Jared's crispy pork bun. To be honest though, that was the only thing pork-tastic about Jared's meal. Those rice cakes were some strange love child of marshmallow peeps and chili sauce. All in all, I was very happy with my selection, although I would have loved to have gotten my hands on some of that Dealer's choice. I'll throw it back to Jared, who is going to tell you about the best ice cream I've ever had. Thats right... ever.

And now to the ice cream....by the time I finished the fries, bun, and cakes, I was already stuffed. But I still had to have the Old Fashion Donut Ice Cream! All I can say is that it's a good thing I found some room for it. This was one of the best ice creams I've ever had. It tasted like if you were to let a cinnamon donut soak in milk for a while and then you scooped it out with a spoon. Just wow. Fortunately, this is currently on the menu at the Momofuku Bakery & Milk Bar. I doubt it will be long before I go back for more.

Report Card

Food: A (i need to get to momofuku asap!)

Atmosphere: A+ (picnic tables on Houston, very awesome)

Price: A+ (it's hard to get better than free)

Overall: A+

NBC Locals Contest

Good news. A few weeks back I won an NBC Locals contest online which is getting me into a private lunch today prepared by chef David Chang of Momofuku. They had a trivia contest on the NBC Locals website and apparently I was one of the first 5 people on that particular day to get the answers correct. David has 4 Momofuku restaurants in the city and they are all doing incredibly well. In 2008, Momofuku Ko received 2 Michelin stars and David won the James Beard Award for best Chef in NYC! So be on the look out this weekend for a recap of this event. I'm pretty excited about it.

Jared

The Spotted Pig

There are few restaurants in the city that receive more attention from the press than the West Village "gastro-pub", The Spotted Pig. Maybe it's because it's owned in part by Mario Batali and Jay-Z. Maybe it's because Anthony Bourdain often rocks a Spotted Pig t-shirt on "No Reservations". Whatever it is, the two-hour wait for dinner they amass nightly was enough of a reason for us to see what all the hooplah was about. In this economy, if a restaurant that serves $30 entrees can fill its tables night after night, something must be good.

Because we were with a group in celebration of my birthday, here is a whole slew of dishes we got to try at The Spotted Pig. Since both of FoodGasm's co-editors were present, Jon's opinion is provided as well.

Deviled Eggs

Jared: Great. Spiced very well. And the vinegar was a nice touch.

Jon: I don't love vinegar on my deviled eggs. Still, they were pretty good. A nice little snack with a beer.

(Sorry for the lack of a picture, but these were gone within seconds of their arrival to the table)

Soleil Oysters with Mignonette

Jared: I'm such a sucker for oysters. While these weren't the biggest oysters I've ever had, they were fresh and the mignonette added a very nice subtle aroma. They immediately reminded me of summer.

Jon: Can't really go wrong here. Fresh raw oysters are truly one of my favorite delicacies. This may have been my favorite part of the meal, which may give you an idea of what I thought about the rest of the dishes.

Grilled Fennel and Radicchio Salad with Speck and Baked Parmesan

Jared: Really nice. Great flavors. Speck is awesome.

Jon: Many of you know, as I have often written, I love prosciutto. Speck is too not far off, except that it is boned before it is cured. Instant foodgasm. Grilled Radicchio and fennel were a perfect compliment to the salty ham.

Pork Rillette with Mustard and Pickles

Jared: Wow. Their homemade mustard was definitely one of the highlights of the meal. It's one of those things that stood out as so outstanding, I'll always associate with this restaurant. It didn't hurt that the pork was great. I made a little sandwich with the Texas-style toast they bring to the table, the pork, and the mustard.

Jon: Imagine pork paste. It sounds delicious, but let me tell you, it isn't. Served with a little grain mustard and a few cornishons, you are given a bowl full of pork vaseline with a healthy layer of pure pork fat on top. Sure, a rillette is technically a pork pate of sorts, so I should have full well known what I was getting into. This dish took 9 years off of my life.

Chicken Liver Parfait with Onion Marmalade

Jared: The easiest way to describe The Spotted Pig is "bold flavors". Again I made a sandwich with the toast, liver, and onions. The liver had such an intense flavor that I needed a minute or two to take the whole experience in. While I really enjoyed this, I don't know if I could have had more than a third of the serving. It was very intense.

Jon: Not the best liver pate I have ever had. Not the worst either. Way too rich. Certainly not a head turner. I'd much prefer some chopped liver from Sammy's Romanian.

And now on to the entrees...

Chargrilled Burger with Roquefort Cheese & Shoestring Fries

Jared: While I love burgers, I'm always hesitant to order one at a pub. Fortunately, they make great burgers here. The bun was soft, the meat was cooked nicely, and the Roquefort added another great bold flavor. I would put this burger up against NYC's finest. Along with the burger was a mountain of fries. Literally. These were also great. They are so light that while I may not have been able to eat anything else, I couldn't stop shoveling these in my mouth.

Jon: Excuse me, Sir? Would you like some hamburger with your Roquefort cheese. Jesus, the blue cheese just annihilates any other flavor you may have tasted here. This was supposed to be the go-to dish at this place? Give me a break! Wendy's makes a better burger. No lettuce, no tomato, no onion, no nothing. I did like the bun, which is usually something that I have a gripe about when I order a burger at a restaurant. The shoestring fries were also surprisingly good. Usually, shoe string fries are a total waste. These actually had some substance to them, so it wasn't just eating fried nothing. Still, this burger was a total disappointment.

Squid Stew

Jared: Amazing. I don't know what was in this besides Squid, but I don't really care. I would order this any day. It's a shame that I didn't and had to settle for a few bites of someone else's.

Jon: Agreed. I only had a bite, but it was probably my favorite bite of any of the entrees.

Crispy Pork Belly with Peas

Jared: Soft, juicy, fatty pork cased within crispy pork skin. Could I have asked for more? Unlike Porchetta's pork skin (reviewed several weeks ago), this was much easier to chew and enjoy the succulent flavors that spilled out of it.

Jon: This was a special that night, and it especially sucked (get it, hehe). Thinking about this still makes me shudder. I was all about this dish when I saw it. I saw pork belly, and I said great, bring on the crispy skinned bacon steak. What I ended up with was more like two really great pieces of fried pork skin hiding some sort of awful grease trap. Seriously, where was the meat here? It was like a pork fat marshmallow that melted in your mouth and left you with the feeling you've been sucking fat out of Marlon Brando's ass with a straw.

Jared: I can't say this restaurant met my expectations because they completely sidestepped them and wowed me in ways I wasn't expecting. Each dish had its own incredibly bold flavor. Nothing was subtle or mild about this meal. The service was great. We only waiting about an hour and a half. It may sound like a while, but considering the wait usually usually way over 2 hours, it wasn't so bad. They don't take reservations, but you can stop in and give them your cell and they will call you when your table is ready. The whole restaurant felt very "at home". The upstairs dining areas are split into small rooms and the tables are covered with brown paper. Despite being one of the heaviest meals in recent memory, I would trade a light, healthy meal for night at The Spotted Pig any day. I never thought it was possible to be so creative with pub food.

Jon: Seriously, what is the big fuss with this place. People wait for hours for this? I think they put those brown bags over the tables so people don't start sliding all over the place from all the pork fat.

Report Card

Jared's

Food: A

Atmosphere: A (the outside is surrounded by flowers and the inside is covered with pictures of pigs)

Price: B (this is a very upscale restaurant. you pay for what you get.)

Overall: A

Jon's

Food: C+

Atmosphere: A- (very cool, I must admit)

Price: C+ (9 dollars for a Guinness folks)

Overall: B-

The Spotted Pig

314 W. 11th St.

at Greenwich St.

212-620-0393

Hot Dog Battle

In the continuing spirit of having New York food face off in heated battle, FoodGasm is prepared to throw its hat in the hot dog ring. Hot dogs quite literally litter the streets of New York City, but unlike their burger counterpart, there is little effort to dress up the dog into some gourmet piece of art. Always affordable, hot dogs are a great "go to" in times like these, so I am here to make sure you don't wind up settling for the sidewalk cart. Because I think its kind of funny to imagine hot dogs fighting each other, FoodGasm will ultimately decide which hot dog reigns supreme by having New York hot dog joints compete for my praise and affection in a new segment here on FoodGasm called "Hot Dog Battle". Each battle will pin one hot dog giant against another, winner stays on. Got it? Good. 

The first round of Hot Dog Battle boasts two fierce competitors, each worthy of the title of Hot Dog Champion of New York City. In the blue corner, hailing from Coney Island, Brooklyn, wearing the green trunks with yellow trim, is Nathan's Famous Hot Dogs. This is the original folks, on the corner of Stillwell and Surf, where it has stood since 1916, pleasing beach-goers and amusement park patrons for almost one hundred years. 

In the red corner, hailing from four locations in Manhattan, wearing yellow shorts with red trim, Gray's Papaya. Since 1973, Gray's has been part of the three store hot dog triple treat tag team that includes the equally fearsome Papaya King and Papaya Dog. Gray's is the go to place to drunkenly stumble into and see how many hot dogs you can fit in your mouth at once. Ok, somebody ring the bell, because these introductions have got me pretty hungry. 

Lets start with Nathan's. I've had Nathan's before going to the original. Consistently disappointed, I thought the original would surely be something better. How wrong I was. The dogs from Coney Island are exactly the same ones that you can buy in a mall food court. For some time, the Mets have sold these dogs at Shea Stadium (rest in peace) and they consistently sucked, but I always chalked that up to the Shea vendors. At least at the original Nathan's, the dogs are grilled, and don't sit in dirty hot dog water, but that doesn't make up for their sheer lack of flavor and rubbery texture. The bun is another weak point. It tastes like it has been sitting in cardboard box for months, waiting patiently to be unpacked from its long journey from some big factory some factory in the middle of nowhere. Stale, uninspiring, and poor. 

Still, it's not all bad for Nathan's. While the dog is meh, with a healthy topping of blah, its got great atmosphere and character. You can feel the history there. Being raised not far from the Jersey shore, I know the allure of this sort of place. You emerge from the ocean, your body dries in the hot summer sun. Barefoot, you walk across the warm sand, up to the boardwalk, and grab a Nathan's dog and an ice cream cone to return to your beach towel with. (Either I should have been in marketing, or I've been watching far too much Mad Men) A block away is the cyclone, and the rest of Astroland amusement park. While this place is oozing with New York City history, which is something I'm a sucker for, it certainly does not make up for the mediocre dogs. 

Now Gray's Papaya, that my friends, is a freakin' hot dog. On top of the list of things that I look for in a hot dog is something I like to call - "snappiness". Hot dogs should have a certain pop, a healthy snap to them. This is what separates the men from the boys. Gray's has this in spades. The dogs have a crispy outside that gives way to a tender juicy inside when you bit into it. You can get it plain, with kraut, or with onions in that tangy red mystery sauce. For me, the classic New York dog is with mustard and kraut, no ifs, ands, or buts about it. Unless you are under ten, it is completely unacceptable to put ketchup on a hot dog. If you are with me, and I catch you, I swear I'll knock it right out of your hands. 

While this is a hot dog battle, I did give Nathan's props for non-hot dog related stuff, so I will do the same for Gray's. First, its namesake, the papaya drink. Honestly, I can't think of anything better to wash down a dog with. It's slightly creamy, sort of sweet, and conveys a unique tropical flavor. If you cant finish it, take it home and put some dark rum in there, and you are in business. But c'mon, seriously, finish it, its not that big. Another thing Gray's has going for it is that its so cheap. It boasts those two magic words that I always love to hear - recession special. For $4.75 you can get two dogs and a papaya drink, which, although having been raised from $3.50 about six months ago, is still a bargain. Lastly, during the election, they boasted a big sign that read, "We support Barack Obama." Because we here at FoodGasm are avid Obamamaniacs, we support that they support Barry "The Rock" Obama. 

So, the battle is over and its a clear victory. It's a first round knock out for Gray's Papaya, rendering Nathan's like the ninety three year old man left to die on the beaches of Coney Island that it is. I gotta say folks, Gray's is good, damn good. Someone is going to have to seriously step up, because Gray's has the stuff to tear through this contest like a young Mike Tyson, you know, before he like, abused all those women, and went totally nuts. 

Until next time, stay hungry folks. 

Jon

Report, err, I mean, Score Cards:

Nathan's Famous

Food: C+

Atmosphere: A

Service: B-

Price: B

Overall: B-

Gray's Papaya

Food: A

Atmosphere: B+

Service: A

Price: A

Overall: A

Num Pang

I cannot begin to tell you how joyed I am that Cambodian street food has entered into my life. Ratha Chau, chef-owner of Kampuchea in the lower east side, recently opened up a small sandwich shop in Greenwich Village called Num Pang. I cant pretend to be able to explain the subtleties of Cambodian cuisine, but I can tell you that the sandwiches at Num Pang are very very good. 

Num Pang, occupying a space no bigger than a couple NFL linemen, serves up Cambodian style sandwiches to what seems to be an exponentially growing mob of hungry patrons. Choices vary from pulled pork with a tangy honey glaze to peppercorn catfish, from hoisin veal meatballs to coconut shrimp, not to mention a few others. 

Each sandwich is prepared on a freshly baked baguette, likely a product of Cambodia's French colonial history. The bread really makes this sandwich so irresistible, striking the perfect balance of crusty and chewy. After being slathered with a chili mayo, and topped with pickled carrots, cilantro, and a cool cucumber, the sandwiches are ready to be adorned with the protein of your choosing. 

Of the one's I have tried thus far, I would recommend the coconut shrimp. Grilled moments before snuggling up on the baguette, the shrimp are fresh and flavorful. The hoisin veal meatball sandwich was good, but not as delicious. I really wanted that hoisin flavor to come through, but sadly I was left with just an average meatball, that was texturally unsatisfying. My sandwich eating cohorts raved about the pulled pork, which is no surprise, pulled pork is always excellent in any context. 

So, if your looking for something interesting to eat for lunch, hit up Num Pang. Fair warning, the sandwiches are a tad small, and for 8 dollars you can almost get 24 feet of sandwich at that Jared Fogel place, but this is much better. Num Pang delivers some serious eats, and hopefully etches a new cuisine into your culinary lexicon. 

Stay hungry. 

Jon 

Report Card:

Food: A-

Atmosphere: B

Service: B+

Price: B

Overall: B+

Strip House

Contrary to popular belief, I am not a full time food blogger. I spend most of my days studying the law, locked away in a small room with ten pounds of books nobody should ever be subjected to. Being a student, my access to restaurants in New York City is often limited by the exorbitant price of the city's top eateries. However, once in a blue moon, be it special occasion or momentary periods of being a "baller", I gain access to these high priced restaurants. This week, I ate at Strip House. 

Strip House is a men's club. It exists somewhere between a steakhouse and a bordello, lights dimmed blood red and its walls covered with pin ups and celebrities from the early part of the 20th century. Its the sort of place where the well off talk business over cigars, scotch, and steak. Much like the rest of the New York City steakhouses, it aims to convey a certain nostalgia, however here its not one of charm and a simpler time. Rather it conveys pure sin and vice. Its the perfect place to grab hold of a hefty knife and rip into some juicy beef. 

The main attraction is obviously the steak. Unless you are dining alone, there is no reason not to get the "table side carving for two". We got it for three, and it was more than enough steak, not to mention the bounty of sides we ordered. You have the choice of a Porterhouse or a Chateaubriand. The Porterhouse is the mac daddy of steaks. On one side of the bone is a filet mignon, or the tenderloin. On the other side is the strip, a less tender, but arguably tastier cut. The steak is dry aged, perfectly charred on the outside, and cooked to your liking. Its served up with their own steak sauce. I am not an A1 kind of person, and I generally do not like "steak sauce". Yet, this steak sauce is not to be missed. Its tangy, spicy, and a perfect compliment to the meat. In short, the steak was good, but I've had tons better, and its surely not a foodgasm. 

For me, steakhouses are all about the sides. We ordered three of them. First, Goose Fat Fried Potatoes. This was a knockout punch. The waiter informed our table that this dish is consistently voted the best side in New York. I dont know about that, but it was outrageous for sure. Imagine a perfectly rich and buttery mound of mashed potatoes, dropped into a deep fryer full of savory goose fat. This dish may have taken some years off my life, but I was glad to make the exchange. 

Next, Black Truffle Creamed Spinach. Creamed spinach is a must at a steakhouse. It would be like going to McDonalds and not getting fries. The creamed spinach at Strip House was good, but it wasn't great. The hint of black truffle was an interesting note, but the spinach was just didn't really do it for me. 

Last, and least, was the Sautéed Wild Mushrooms. There isn't much good or bad I can say about this dish. It was simply some wild mushrooms, presumably sauteed with some garlic and butter. Tasty? Yes. A complex and original work of art? Not even close, but hey, its a steakhouse, so I wasn't exactly expecting molecular gastronomy. 

When I am privileged to enter the world of restaurants I can't afford, I want to be enlightened. I want to experience something unique, or interesting, or overwhelmingly delicious. Sadly, this was not my experience at Strip House. Don't get me wrong folks, it was great, especially those potatoes, but all in all, it fell a little flat. 

Until next time, stay hungry. 

Jon 

Report Card:

Food: B

Atmosphere: B+

Service: A-

Price: B- (its expensive, but not in comparison to like restaurants) 

Overall: B